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From his tone, it seemed that even he was surprised and tickled to be saying Houlihan. But out of the hundreds of contemporary and designer pants, of the cargoes and leggings and boyfriend khakis stretching across the country in a blur, the www.jbrandhoulihan.net is certainly worth noting.

Since the end of January, its manufacturer, J Brand, who has sold more than 75,000 pairs with the style and has 40,000 pairs on back order. In 33 years Ive never shipped anything such as this, Jeff Rudes, the founder and leader of J Brand, said now, noting that some customers have offered to prepay for the $230 style. Bloomingdales who has sold thousands, according to Mr. Doroff, who wants more. Barneys New York has 1,000 pairs of Houlihans on reorder, with waiting lists at its stores. The Intermix chain said hello has sold 2,000 pairs.

J Brand, a 5-year-old company situated in California, is widely distributed, and this particular cargo style has apparently done well everywhere, though the hard-to-get factor may be exaggerated. On Monday, I counted five pairs at Bergdorf Goodman, plus a number of Web sites indicated they had them.

Still, there isn\\\'t any denying their hot-item status. Although Mr. Rudes might sell more jeans and leggings, the interest in the pricey Houlihan, which J Brand considers a novelty style, continues to be exceptionally intense. Fashion blogs have been discussing the style since February - the fit seems to be the main draw - and you may find scads of pictures of Houlihan-supportive celebrities, including Rihanna and Jessica Alba.

The military-style pants were aptly named, too - after Hot Lips Houlihan of the movie and television series M*A*S*H.

Mr. Doroff said that the response to the pants was immediate and persuasive. At the begining of February, a Bloomingdales manager on the West Coast alerted him that the order had out of stock in a matter of days. Then Mr. Doroffs 12-year-old daughter told him she wanted a couple of Houlihans. By that time, however, they were sold out at Bloomingdales in The big apple.

In Mr. Doroffs view, the Houlihan has been successful because of the lightweight yet rugged fabric, the faded olive color and also the popularity this spring of cargo pants and other military looks. The jeans business has been a little tough, he was quoted saying. We needed some newness available in the market. He added, discussing Mr. Rudes, He was the newness.

The Houlihan consists of a Japanese cotton twill which contains two percent Lycra. In addition to a vintage wash, it\\\'s smooth cargo pockets and a tapering fit that ends with zippers on the outside of the legs. Mr. Rudes said, Its by pointing out fit.

Anyone who has tried around the Houlihans would likely agree. Although their skinny line appears unforgiving, they may be very flattering. They are well with sandals and sneakers as stilettos.

The similarity to Balmains cargo pants doesnt go unnoticed, either, although the Balmains are about $2,000 and also have, as if it could make that big a difference, top-stitching on the thighs to boost the worn look. Mr. Rudes said his pants were within the pipeline before Balmain showed the style in Paris last October. Lets face it, he added. Were not Balmain.